How Chef Kristian Baumann Infuses His Korean-Danish Heritage at Koan, Copenhagen – Interview

INTERVIEW

Chef Kristian Baumann’s journey to culinary success is a tale of resilience, self-discovery, and the blending of two distinct cultures. Adopted from Korea by a Danish family, Kristian grew up in a small city outside Copenhagen, where he embraced both his Danish upbringing and Korean heritage. A passion for physical activity eventually gave way to a love for cooking during his time at a boarding school focused on physical education. This new-found passion led him to culinary school, where he honed his skills and began his career in traditional Danish kitchens.

Kristian's culinary path was shaped by his experiences in Copenhagen's vibrant food scene, including a transformative stagiaire at Noma. However, it was a harrowing experience in France, where he was robbed and stabbed, that solidified his determination to succeed. Returning to Denmark, he played a pivotal role in opening Manfreds and Relæ with Christian Puglisi (both restaurants are now closed), laying the groundwork for his own culinary vision.

Despite his success, something was missing. The COVID-19 pandemic provided Kristian the time to reflect and reconnect with his Korean roots, leading to the creation of Koan. With its thoughtful design and commitment to sustainability, Koan embodies Kristian's philosophy of creating an authentic dining experience that honours his dual heritage. The restaurant earned two Michelin stars just ten weeks after opening, solidifying Kristian Baumann as one of Denmark's most exciting and visionary chefs. We chatted with the chef to find out more about his Danish upbringing and cultural influences.

1) How would you describe your culinary career so far?

I would describe my culinary career as a journey deeply rooted in my Danish upbringing and enriched by diverse experiences. Formally trained in French and Nordic cuisine, I have always been driven by a desire to challenge myself and strive for excellence. Throughout my career, I have been fortunate to learn from talented chefs and industry professionals, including my former employers at Restaurant Relæ, Christian Puglisi, and the late Kim Rossen. Their innovative approach to cooking and restaurant management has inspired me to push boundaries and explore new culinary horizons. Today, at Koan, I blend the best of both worlds, combining Nordic flavours with influences from my travels to Korea.

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2) How have your cultural background and experiences shaped your approach to cooking?

My cultural background and experiences have significantly influenced my approach to cooking. Growing up in a traditional Danish family, I was exposed to the rich flavours of Danish cuisine from a young age. I have fond memories of my mother and grandmother preparing traditional dishes like pork roast with boiled potatoes and brown gravy. My childhood experiences, including working on a local farm and being exposed to Korean culture through Danish/Korean gatherings that my family and I went to over the years. All this has shaped my approach to cooking. Today, I combine Nordic flavours with influences from my travels to Korea, creating a unique fusion of tastes and techniques at KoanOAN. This blend of cultures allows me to craft innovative and memorable dishes that reflect my diverse background and experiences.

3) What is the philosophy of Koan's cuisine?

The philosophy of my cuisine comes from my training in French and Nordic cuisine – I often questioned where I fit in. Initially, being adopted felt like a weakness to me. However, I've come to realise that it's actually my greatest strength. At Restaurant Koan, I have the opportunity to merge the best of both worlds. I blend the memories, techniques, and flavours from my trips to Korea with the culinary traditions of the Nordic region.

4) How do you balance staying true to Korean heritage while infusing Danish artistry into your dishes at Koan?

Throughout the years, I travelled a lot to Korea, and I have explored all kinds of restaurants, frequented numerous street food vendors, and visited temples. I have met many inspiring people along the way: these experiences and memories have shaped the dining experience we offer at Koan.

One of the most fascinating things is that our Danish and Korean guests often express similar sentiments. They recognise familiar flavours paired with new and unexpected ones. This feedback is gratifying because it shows that our guests truly grasp and appreciate the unique dining experience we aim to create.

5) If you could give a piece of advice to yourself at the start of your culinary journey, what would it be?

I would say that dreams are the most powerful thing – invest in yourself and try to learn everything you can from the people you respect from the industry and put the craft as a priority as it is worth more than money.

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6) What do you aim to bring to the Copenhagen culinary scene with Koan?

With Koan, our goal is to immerse our guests in our culinary journey by sharing the memories and inspirations that I gathered from my trips to South Korea. We wanted to create a unique, intimate atmosphere where guests are near the kitchen so that they can create a sort of connection while they have enough personal space to converse comfortably.

7) What do you hope the guests will take away from dining at Koan?

What I hope the guests will take away from dining at Koan is the desire to learn more about Korean history, culture and food. To travel to Korea and experience the country in all its glory.

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