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KOH SAMUI
A hotel review of Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui. All images courtesy of Adam Thompson | CSP Times.
We’re standing in the open-air lobby of the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, the very spot where Mike White first arrived, took in the sweep of jungle-clad hills spilling into the Gulf of Thailand, and fell, wordlessly, in love. “It was love at first sight,” says JJ – Jasjit Assi, the resort’s ever-genial manager – as we sip our chilled welcome refreshments, taking in the same beauty of what White saw. Below us, the villas nestle into the landscape, almost imperceptible in the afternoon haze. “At night, they look like eyes in the hills,” JJ adds, and we can already imagine the slow, watchful blink of a setting worthy of The White Lotus.
Thailand holds a particular pull, a magnetic charm that lingers long after you leave. It’s a place of reinvention – whether you’re a wide-eyed backpacker, a spiritual seeker chasing enlightenment, or a jet-setter who has long since swapped full-moon parties for five-star villas. And for many, the island of Samui is already a well-trodden paradise, a postcard-perfect escape that somehow still manages to surprise.
But Thailand isn’t just special to wistful travellers – it holds a deeper connection for The White Lotus creator Mike White himself. No stranger to these shores, he first ventured into the country not as a filmmaker, but as a contestant. Years ago, he tested his mettle on Survivor and later navigated the high-stakes chaos of The Amazing Race. Long before he was crafting razor-sharp social satires set in luxury resorts, he was sweating it out in Thailand’s wilds, learning firsthand the art of survival – both literal and cinematic.
During his search for the perfect setting for The White Lotus, Mike White crisscrossed Thailand, scouting the misty mountains of Chiang Mai, the golden beaches of Phuket, and the dramatic limestone cliffs of Krabi. But it was Koh Samui that stole his heart. And among its many luxurious retreats, the Four Seasons quickly became his favourite – the kind of place where privilege and paradise collide, tailor-made for the sharp satire and indulgent escapism that The White Lotus thrives on.
“He chose this resort because he was drawn to its design – the layering, the way it blends seamlessly into the landscape,” JJ explains. “It’s a place that respects not just luxury, but the local culture of Mother Nature.” And indeed, the Four Seasons Koh Samui isn’t a resort that shouts for attention. It whispers, nestling into the hillside, letting the palms, the ocean, and the unhurried rhythm of island life take centre stage.
"Respecting Mother Nature" is something of an understatement. Designed by the world-renowned Bill Bensley, the resort was built on the site of a former coconut plantation with an almost obsessive commitment to preservation. Not a single tree was cut down during construction – 856 coconut trees remain, their towering silhouettes dictating the layout of the villas rather than the other way around. This explains why the resort doesn’t conform to rigid symmetry; instead, it flows with the land, each villa tucked organically into the hillside, as if nature itself had planned it that way.
Opened in 2007, the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui pays tribute to traditional southern Thai architecture – think thatched roofs, open-air spaces that blur the line between indoors and out, and a colour palette that mirrors the sea. Perched on the hillside, every guest villa comes with a private infinity pool and sweeping views of the Gulf of Thailand. The resort offers 71 accommodations in total: 60 secluded pool villas designed for ultimate privacy and 11 expansive private residences, available for those who prefer their luxury on a grander scale.
Set on the northwestern tip of Koh Samui, the Four Seasons enjoys the island’s only private beach access. Despite its close proximity to many of Samui’s sights and excursions, the resort feels like its own little idyll. Well, little might be a stretch – it spans a sprawling 42 acres, more private enclave than boutique hideaway.
We arrived from Hong Kong after a two-night stopover in Bangkok, flying in on a smooth one-hour Bangkok Airways flight. Forty-five minutes after landing, we pulled up to the Four Seasons, where the welcome was as warm as the island breeze.
Our home for the stay was the 1,108-square-foot Island Ocean Pool Villa, a secluded sanctuary perched in the hillside, complete with a private infinity pool. Interiors are a study in understated tropical luxury – turquoise blues and seafoam greens complement rosewood furnishings and custom-made artwork. Outside, a marble dining table, a daybed, and two sun loungers offer front-row seats to paradise.
I couldn’t help but wonder which villa The White Lotus’s newest star, Lalisa Manobal – better known as Lisa from Blackpink – called home during filming. Something tells me it wasn’t too far from ours.
The food at Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui is a celebration of fresh, vibrant flavours, each dish as thoughtfully crafted as the resort itself. At Pla Pla, the menu showcases the island’s bounty, offering fresh seafood and prime cuts of meat. Standouts include the wagyu katsu sando – a crispy, indulgent twist on the classic sandwich – and the zesty sea bass ceviche, a perfect antidote to the tropical heat.
For a more immersive dining experience, KOH Thai Kitchen offers not only a menu full of Thai culinary gems but also sweeping views of the resort. Signature dishes like larb tuna, som tum yot ma prao (green papaya salad with coconut), and gaeng masaman nua (slow-cooked wagyu beef cheek) are culinary highlights, each plate a blend of bold, complex flavours.
For lighter bites and refreshing drinks, KOH Bar serves up delicious snacks, while CoCoRum Bar focuses on bar tapas and expertly crafted cocktails, perfect for an afternoon respite or a sunset toast.
A standout experience, however, was a unique rum tasting at The Vault, Asia’s first and only library dedicated to rums from across the globe. It’s a hidden gem that not only delivers on flavour but also on history – each bottle tells a story of distillation, culture, and craftsmanship.
Wellness is at the very core of Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, where healing practices are celebrated in every form. Nestled within a serene coconut grove, the Secret Garden Spa offers both indoor and outdoor treatment areas, blending the natural surroundings with a sense of tranquility. Here, wellness isn’t just skin-deep – it’s a holistic journey inspired by Thai, Yogic, and other Asian traditions, with the island and its resources serving as the ultimate muse.
The spa’s rituals weave together both internal and external healing. Thai herbal tonics and organic teas sourced from the island are used to rejuvenate the body, while hydrating coconut treatments provide a nourishing touch. For those seeking more immersive experiences, the resort offers wellness therapies, a Beach Spa Sala, and a Yoga Sala, where the sounds of the ocean meet the rhythm of mindful movement.
Signature treatments include the deeply restorative Secret Garden, the rejuvenating Earth Energy Four Hands, the invigorating Fire Energy Four Hands, the balanced Samui Fusion, and the soothing Kala Coconut. Bespoke Bodywork and Thai Foot Reflexology cater to those craving tailored relief, and there’s even a selection of signature treatments for children, ensuring that the whole family can benefit from the island’s healing touch.
For a truly transformative experience, you can explore healing remedies like Reiki – imagine Belinda, played by Natasha Rothwell, offering her own brand of gentle energy healing – or delve into sound therapy, a practice that brings harmony between mind, body, and spirit. The resort’s approach to wellness is as much about embracing the earth as it is about nourishing the soul.
We experienced the 90-minute Kala Coconut treatment, a soothing journey that blends the best of nature with the art of healing. The massage, a soft-to-medium pressure affair, begins with freshly prepared poultices of grated coconut and pandan leaf – an aromatic combination that instantly calms the senses. The use of kala coconut shells deepens the relaxation, their weight offering a grounding pressure, while warm coconut oil is applied to ease muscles and stimulate blood circulation. It’s a treatment that feels both indulgent and therapeutic, as if the island itself is nurturing you from the inside out.
Onsite activities include Buddhist chanting and blessings at the Secret Garden Spa, mat Pilates, kayaking, boating, jogging, and a variety of water toys and equipment. You can also try your hand at a coconut petanque tournament, banana leaf and palm crafting, or take a Thai language class. For a more relaxed pace, there’s sundown meditation, spiritual enlightenment sessions, and a cocktail-making class. The Main Pool by the beach offers regular poolside perks like ice water, chilled towels, and spritzes. Sports enthusiasts can enjoy two turf tennis courts or the Muay Thai boxing ring, where you can train with a professional. For some fun, the Beach House offers a games room.
Offsite, activities range from mountain biking and fishing to jet-skiing. For adventure seekers, we highly recommend the ATV ride through the mountains – complete with breathtaking views.
There’s a main pool, located by the white-sand beach – perfect for soaking in the sun as if you were a guest in The White Lotus. For those seeking a more spiritual experience, there's a Buddhist temple on the grounds, offering a quiet, reflective space to reconnect.
The Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui is barefoot luxury at its finest. Here, impeccable service meets top-tier food and world-class facilities, all set against views that are as stunning as any scene from The White Lotus. It's no wonder that Mike White fell in love with this place – it’s a paradise where every detail is designed for both relaxation and discovery. As they say in the trailer for the HBO show: "At the end of the week, you'll feel like an entirely different person".
Location: Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, 219 Moo 5 Surat Thani Angthong, 84140, Thailand | Phone: +66 77 243 000 | Email: reservations.thailand@fourseasons.com | Instagram: @fskohsamui | Facebook: Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui
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