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LONDON
Images courtesy of Rebecca Dickson and Jennifer Chee
For pop culture enthusiasts and film buffs alike, take a stroll down memory lane at Borough Market, the iconic setting of Bridget Jones. As the fourth chapter of her story unfolds with Bridget Jones: Mad About the Boy on the big screen, it’s the perfect time to visit her former place of residence above The Globe Tavern, which has since been transformed into an intimate eating spot. Specialising in traditional Thai barbecue and street food, Khao Bird, headed up by Luke Larsson serves bold flavours in a relaxed, trendy space buzzing with energy.
The restaurant is situated in the very flat once inhabited by the British icon herself, where Chef Larsson and his talented team serve up one-of-a-kind flavours you won’t find anywhere else on the streets of London. Stylish interiors are illuminated by the warm glow of Khao Bird’s signature neon pink sign, with an atmosphere that is filled with
the trendy beats of low-fi indie pop. Watch as culinary masters work their magic in the open kitchen, turning fresh ingredients into authentic and daring flavour combinations that are served straight to table in an experience that is as unique as the cinematic history saturating the space.
Our culinary adventure began with a satisfying sip after a stroll through Borough Market, with a bold Espresso Martini and a refreshing Fresh Passionfruit Soda, spotted with real passionfruit pieces. To kickstart an exciting flavour journey, a picture-perfect display of Khaobird Daisy Egg Tarts were delivered to table, paired with a trio of vibrant chutneys: a rich sweet pork curry, zesty prik num relish, and a fiery fermented chilli salsa. Subtle nods to authenticity are spread in and throughout each dish, including the bamboo tart box that nested the sunny display of delicate egg tarts. Encased in a satisfyingly crisp and golden pastry shell, creamy quail egg bites offered a delightful balance of light textures and flavours.
Straight from the kitchen arrived a vibrant, tapas-style brunch spread, each plate its own unique journey of flavour and texture. The Sausage + Egg Wrap featured a soft, pillowy wok egg scramble contrasted by the charred crispiness of a grilled roti. The sai-ua herbal sausage burst with aromatics, its bold fragrance enhanced by the zesty crunch of sour pickled tamarind and fresh bell peppers. The Mutton Fries redefined loaded fries with a Thai twist: rich, umami-packed Burmese mutton curry, mellowed with a generous dollop of soured cream. Beneath the layers of indulgence, triple-cooked fries revealed a fluffy, pillowy potato core, adding a comforting body to this decadent fusion dish.
To complete the tapas ensemble, a steaming plate of Shan Meatballs arrived, serving moist and perfectly seasoned chicken that delivered a melt-in-your-mouth tender bite. Topped with crunchy blackened garlic, a favourite flavour combination emerged from the tangy sweetness of the cola glaze, harmoniously balanced with the gentle heat of chopped chilli for an irresistible kick that made every bite an explosion of sweet and spicy.
Generous portions were not amiss with the main courses, with each dish a true testament to Chef Larsson's barbecuing brilliance. The Dry-Aged Local Steak onglet, charred to perfection over an open charcoal flame, arrived accompanied by a creamy, salted soy-cured egg yolk dipping sauce, and lightly sprinkled with cracked ash pepper. The tender steak, recommended with a medium-rare cook, was a fragrant umami-packed reminiscence of the bustling food markets in Thailand, an experience never forgetten from a time travelling in Thailand. This nod to traditional preparation of Thai street-food was impressively delivered with an authenticity unfound elsewhere in London.
To complement Larsson's barbecue artistry, the meal was rounded out with the undeniable star of the show: Khao Soi. This sumptuous dish featured an indulgently creamy coconut soup base, rich and comforting, with handmade noodles offering a satisfying chewy texture. The dish was perfectly balanced with fresh coriander, bringing herbaceous brightness against the velveted richness of the coconut broth, while fresh bean sprouts added a refreshing crunch. For heat seekers, generous portions of chopped fresh chilli are available on-side to elevate the power bowl with mouth-watering spice. Crunchy breadsticks are nested on top, with an initial crunch that develops into a chewy bite once saturated in the killer broth. The star of the show rests atop the ensemble; blackened chicken thigh, charred over the grill and infused with a deep-rooted smokiness that combines all the excellence of Khao Bird’s unrivalled barbecue techniques.
Just when we thought our flavour journey had reached its satisfying peak, we were met with a mouth-wateringly sweet treat that raised indulgence to a new level. The Doughnut Bao, paired with cinnamon Bermondsey ice cream, offered a crispy fried exterior that gave way to a fluffy bao, harmonising a balance of chewy and soft textures. The sugar-coated casing was perfectly sweet, met with a spicy cinnamon ice cream to round out the plate with warming aromatics. It was the ultimate indulgence—reminiscent of a coastal-style fried doughnut, elevated with the unmistakable Khao Bird twist. A sweet ending that was nothing short of satisfaction.
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