Milaidhoo Maldives: An Island for Lovers — Hotel Review

THE MALDIVES

A hotel review of Milaidhoo Maldives. Images courtesy of Milaidhoo and Jasmin Woolf | CSP Times.

There's a particular magic to arriving at Milaidhoo. As the resort's sleek yacht glides across the Baa Atoll's jewel-toned waters, leaving behind the chaotic clamour of busy airports and sweaty seaplane transfers, you’re greeted by a view that can only be described as a screensaver come to life. The incredible crystal clear waters, white sandy beaches, and swaying palm trees as far as the eye can see, it’s our definition of heaven on Earth.

Measuring a mere 300 metres by 180 metres, the island itself is a tiny dot on the map, but it has a whole lot of small island charm. With only 50 villas, the island retains an air of intimacy and exclusivity without ever feeling stuffy. We could hardly believe that the island was almost at full occupancy during our stay. It was understandably busy (but still well-spaced enough so it never felt crowded) at restaurants during breakfast and dinner time, and by the bar during sunset, but otherwise it was remarkably quiet, relaxed and private throughout the day. When you did see other guests out and about, they’re snorkelling in the distance or having a drink by the bar pool, otherwise most guests tend to hang out in their spacious villas for the majority of the day as we did.

Unlike many resorts in the Maldives, you don’t have to share the beach or the swimming pool with noisy, crying littles as Milaidhoo is strictly adults-only. This is a sanctuary that emulates the true essence of the Maldives: silence and nature. There’s no motorized water sports, no thumping music by the pool. Just the sound of waves lapping against powder-soft sand and the occasional cry of a heron skimming across the lagoon, adding to serene atmosphere. Even the seaplanes no longer land right off the resort’s beach, instead dropping you off at a wooden platform out at sea where guests are picked up by Milaidhoo’s yacht, all to avoid any disturbance to the island.

It’s no wonder that Milaidhoo has exceptional appeal to couples and honeymooners, some of whom have been coming to the island for their annual vacation or romantic celebrations for years. In fact, one couple we met at dinner one evening comes to Milaidhoo every year (bar one year during Covid) since it opened in 2016, describing it as their home away from home.

Accommodation

Milaidhoo has just four villa types to choose from: beach or overwater villas, beach residences and two-bedroom ocean residences, all of which comes with large private pools, ocean views, indoor and outdoor living spaces, and spacious bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers as well as a generous-sized bathtub and Acqua Di Parma toiletries. The interior design throughout is elegant yet relaxed, inspired by Maldivian heritage and culture, with thatch roofs, furnishings custom-made for the Milaidhoo, local artwork and pops of colour reflecting the brilliant hues of the island’s natural surroundings. Even the architecture follows nature's lead - villas curve organically along the shoreline, their thatched roofs mirroring the sway of coconut palms.

Entering the 490sqm Beach Residence for the first time was a gasp-inducing experience. Coming through the front door, you step into a large light-filled circular living room with vaulted ceilings and sliding doors that opened up directly onto your private outdoor terrace and 60sqm freshwater infinity pool, beyond which was direct access to the beach and ocean.

Similarly, the high-ceilinged bedroom featured a king-size bed facing floor-to-ceiling windows framing views of the absolutely stunning beach and ocean. There are clever yet thoughtful design touches everywhere: the TV hidden behind local artwork, a mix of fiction and lifestyle books tucked into the bookshelves, and a vintage Monopoly board game conveniently laid out.

What was most impressive about the residence, and where we spent the large majority of our time, was the sun deck fully equipped with your own private pool, an undhoali swing (a traditional Maldivian-style swing couch), sun loungers, a dining table with chairs and a large daybed by the pool. The swing couch quickly became my favourite spot to spend hours indulging in some lazy contemplation and leisurely reading, lulled by the gentle lapping of the waves from the beach.

Dining

Once we were settled in at the villa, it was time to get tucked into Milaidhoo’s culinary offerings.

Despite the island’s size, there are three restaurants and two bars to choose from, so you’ll be hard pressed to eat the same dish twice during your stay. If by any chance you don’t fancy anything on the menu, the chefs are more than happy to whip up an “off-menu” dish. Milaidhoo’s executive sous chef, Chef LJ, originates from Sri Lanka, and upon mentioning our love of Sri Lankan food, his eyes lit up. The next day at breakfast, we had a plate of Sri Lankan hoppers and fish curry sent to our table. For lunch, we sat down to a Sri Lankan feast comprised of several curries and accompaniments, and lobster with the most flavourful curry sauce. It’s true when they say that Milaidhoo takes their food seriously.

At Ocean restaurant, breakfast becomes a cultural exchange: Maldivian mas huni (tuna with coconut) shares the buffet table with authentic French croissants, while chefs prepare eggs Benedict with local crab. In addition to the breakfast buffet, they also had a fairly extensive à la carte menu. During lunch, a selection of fresh and light European dishes are available.

Shoreline Grill only opens for dinner, but it’s well worth the wait. This beachside restaurant focuses on more simply cooked meats and freshly caught local fish and seafood. For a more playful and interactive dinner,  opt for a seat at the Shoreline Grill Chef’s Table, where a chef cooks up your dish of choice on a Teppanyaki.

As daylight faded, we'd gravitate toward Compass Pool Bar, where live music floated through the palm trees six evenings a week, a soulful acoustic set perfect for sipping their signature "Milaidhoo Bay Sunset" cocktail, made with cardamom and vanilla infused gin, fresh mango and chilli. The vibe is relaxed, just good drinks and better conversations as the horizon swallowed the sun.

The standout for us was having dinner at Ba'theli, the world's only Maldivian fine dining restaurant, set on three traditional wooden dhoni boats floating in the lagoon. During our meal, I couldn’t help but wonder why no one has opened a Maldivian fine-dining restaurant in Hong Kong. The food was simply spectacular, inspired by the epicurean delights of the old Spice Routes using only the finest ingredients, blending herbs and spices to enhance natural flavours of the ingredients. Perhaps what makes Ba’theli so special is being able to enjoy the meal barefoot on a traditional Maldivian boat under the stars, listening to the sounds of the waves or the splashing from fish swimming around the boat or making conversation with the ever-so-friendly wait staff. Either way, having had no prior knowledge about Maldivian food, Ba’theli promptly showed us that Maldivian cuisine is criminally underrated and deserves a spotlight on the world stage.

Things to Do

While Milaidhoo offers plenty of activities for those seeking a little adventure, this is the place to switch off and go analogue, read books, take a nap by the pool, eat well and drink cocktails while taking in sights of the ocean with your amore, fully immersed in the island’s natural rhythm.

Should you feel like venturing out a little further than your private pool, the island is surrounded by a superb house reef brimming with corals and marine life, or a quick 15-minute speed boat ride away from the renowned Hanifaru Bay aka Manta Wonderland. Milaidhoo also offer dolphin cruises, group or private snorkelling or dive trips, fishing, a romantic picnic on your own private sandbank to channel your inner Robinson Crusoe... And essentially everything in between.

Being avid snorkellers, we took full advantage of the house reef on our doorstep. Slipping into the water at dawn, we’d find the coral gardens alive with schools of fish and turtles breakfasting on the coral and blacktip reef sharks patrolling the drop-off. As we joined for a guided night snorkel around the lagoon, we had the chance to witness the nocturnal sea life come to life: with eagle rays performing a hypnotic dance through the water and a friendly stingray who followed along with us for 20 minutes.  

Back on land, Milaidhoo’s Serenity Spa features four overwater treatment rooms that each come with their own outdoor balcony for that extra wow factor. The therapies on offer are as thoughtful as the rest of the resort, try the Milaidhoo Signature Massage using aromatic shea butter and a warm beach sand compress to ease tension to the rhythm of lapping waves.

The Service

We can go on and on about the beautiful architecture or the food at Milaidhoo, but the true gem of this hotel is its people. The warm and genuine hospitality of the staff, known as family members, creates an atmosphere of comfort and belonging. Their dedication to making every guest's stay extraordinary is reflected in every detail.

The personal touch is evident as soon as you arrive, with an island host who serves as a personal concierge throughout your stay. Our host, Anth, was a delight, discrete but always happy to help even if it was to sew a button back onto a top or bring us an extra blanket. Nothing was too much trouble and it does make the service very personal and friendly.

The Milaidhoo Difference

In a world of formulaic resorts each trying to outcompete the other, Milaidhoo Maldives feels like a breath of fresh air. There’s no flashy excess here. Milaidhoo exists in a category of its own, a place where luxury means having space to breathe, to connect, and to remember what really matters about paradise.

Book Your Stay

Address: Milaidhoo Island, Baa Atoll, Maldives | Website: Milaidhoo.com | Email: welcome@milaidhoo.com | Phone: +960 660 77 88 | Facebook: @Milaidhoo | Instagram: @Milaidhoo