Nusara's Chef Ton on Preserving Heritage and Embracing Modernity in Thai Cuisine

INTERVIEW

Renowned for redefining modern Thai cuisine, Chef Ton draws deep inspiration from his roots, celebrating the legacy of his grandmother in his latest restaurant, Nusara. Stirring in the heart and soul of Thai culture into his menu, Chef Ton champions local farmers and sustainable ingredients to shape dishes true to his heritage, with a modern twist. Building of a breadth of experience at some of the greatest restaurants across the globe, Chef Ton's disciplined attention to detail is visibly clear in the beautiful presentations he plates. At the heart of his culinary journey lies a creative blend of tradition, innovation, and heartfelt storytelling through food.

Looking ahead to the future of Thai cuisine whilst remaining rooted in tradition, Chef Ton sat down for an interview with CSP Times to discuss his culinary journey, and personal inspiration for Nurasa.

Can you describe your culinary philosophy and how it has evolved over the years?

My culinary philosophy centres around a deep respect for the roots of Thai cuisine, with a focus on sustainability. Over the years, I have placed increasing importance on sourcing local, seasonal ingredients to create dishes that celebrate traditional flavours. Building strong relationships with local farmers, fishermen, and producers has been vital to ensuring the authenticity and sustainability of our ingredients. This commitment to local sourcing has allowed me to share the heritage of Thai food in a way that resonates with modern dining trends.

Who or what has been your greatest inspiration in your culinary journey?

My greatest inspiration has always been my grandmother, Nusara. She was the one who raised me and instilled in me a love for cooking from a very young age. Her meals were full of love and memories, and I always felt a strong connection to her through the food she prepared. Her influence is deeply ingrained in my approach to cooking.

Le Du emphasises modern Thai cuisine using local, seasonal ingredients. How do you balance traditional Thai flavours with modern techniques in your dishes?

For me, the most important factor is the taste and authenticity of each dish. I believe that modern techniques should enhance and support the traditional flavours rather than overshadow them. Modernity is a tool to improve the original recipes, whether through better presentation or by using techniques that allow us to extract deeper flavours. The goal is to maintain the integrity of Thai cuisine, while elevating it in a way that excites the contemporary palate.

What challenges have you faced in sourcing local ingredients, and how do you overcome them?

When I first opened Le Du, many people were skeptical about local ingredients. It was challenging to find farmers and fishermen who believed in the potential of these ingredients. However, I took the time to meet with them, explain my vision, and show them the importance of supporting local produce. I also made sure to pay them fairly, which helped build trust and demonstrate that their hard work would be valued. Over time, as the demand for local, sustainable ingredients grew, these suppliers became key partners in helping to build the quality of our dishes.

Nusara is a tribute to your late grandmother. How does her influence manifest in the restaurant's menu and ambience?

Nusara is a celebration of my grandmother’s life and legacy. The menu features several dishes that were favourites of hers, as well as items inspired by the flavours and techniques she taught me. The ambience of Nusara also pays tribute to her, with details such as the fabric library; My grandmother’s presence is woven into every part of Nusara, and she will always be with us through the food and atmosphere.

What are some signature dishes at Nusara that hold special meaning to you?

One dish that holds special significance is the Blue Swimming Crab Curry. This was my grandmother’s favourite curry, and it brings back fond memories of her cooking. 

How did your experiences at renowned New York restaurants shape your approach to Thai cuisine?

Working at esteemed restaurants like Eleven Madison Park taught me the value of discipline, attention to detail, and creativity. The rigorous standards of the kitchen and the dedication to perfection shaped how I approach Thai cuisine today. It also helped me understand how important it is to continuously innovate while respecting the traditions of the cuisine. Those experiences allowed me to bring a higher level of professionalism and creativity to the Thai dishes I create.

What are your thoughts on the current global perception of Thai cuisine, and how do you see it evolving?

Thai cuisine is currently experiencing a remarkable rise on the global stage. It is no longer just viewed as street food but is also being recognised in fine dining establishments worldwide. I believe we are at a very exciting point, where Thai flavours are being appreciated for their complexity and balance. I see the future of Thai cuisine expanding even further, with more chefs innovating and bringing new techniques to the dishes while staying true to the authenticity that defines our food.

Could you share your top five favourite restaurants in Thailand right now and explain what makes each special?

1. Potong, Bangkok – This is one of the hottest restaurants in Bangkok right now. Their approach to modern Chinese-Thai cuisine is innovative.

2. Jay Fai, Bangkok – A true icon of Thailand’s street food scene. Jay Fai’s ability to elevate street food to a Michelin-starred level is nothing short of extraordinary.

3. 100 Mahaseth, Bangkok – The best Isan (northeastern Thai) food in the city. Their rustic flavours and commitment to authenticity make it a standout.

4. Maison Dunand, Bangkok – A beautiful French restaurant in the heart of the city. The ambience is elegant, and the cuisine is some of the best French food I’ve had in Thailand.

5. Jay So, Bangkok – Known as the "queen of Som Tum" (papaya salad) and home to some of the best chicken wings in Thailand. It’s the perfect place to experience exceptional Thai street food.

Follow Chef Ton on Instagram.