What’s Really in Your Products: Understanding “Viral” Beauty Ingredients

K-beauty has sparked global obsession with skincare, and products featuring ingredients like hyaluronic acid, collagen, and retinols are now all over our social media feed and filling up our bathroom cabinets. But what do these ingredients really do, and how can you ensure you're getting the most out of them and using them correctly? Understanding the science behind these ingredients can help you make informed choices, save money, and maximise the benefits of your skincare routine.

Hyaluronic Acid: Hydration Hero

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is best known and loved for its ability to hydrate the skin by holding moisture. Naturally present in our bodies, HA can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, which is why it's a popular ingredient for moisturising products. 

What to look for: When looking at product labels, a concentration of 1% HA is generally effective, though higher concentrations (like 2%) can provide deeper hydration without being too heavy. For those seeking intensive hydration, Dryp Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a must try. This product combines HA with other nourishing ingredients, offering a burst of moisture that leaves skin looking plump and refreshed. First Aid Beauty and By Terry are also super popular options in Hong Kong and available online at Sephora HK.

Collagen: Firmness and Elasticity

Collagen is essential for maintaining the skin’s structure and elasticity. As we age, natural collagen production decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging. While collagen via drinks, supplements, treatments and skincare can’t fully replace what’s lost, products containing hydrolysed collagen (which has smaller molecules) can help improve skin texture and firmness.

What to look for: Look for creams with 1-5% hydrolysed collagen for the best results. Smart Eye Cream contains triple peptides anti-wrinkle ingredients, is formulated with collagen and plant-derived Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline to enhance the bioavailability and absorption. Clinical trials show that the fine lines can be 60% reduced and 53% lightened.

Niacinamide: Versatile and Soothing

Niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, is a multi-tasking ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory properties, which make it excellent for reducing redness and acne. It also helps improve skin elasticity and fade dark spots. Effective products often contain 2-5% niacinamide, though those with up to 10% can offer more noticeable results without causing irritation.

What to look for: Overall, 15% niacinamide seems optimal for targeting pigmentation, melasma and acne. Lower concentrations around 5–10% may be preferable for general anti-aging benefits and everyday use in sensitive skin types. Rebecca Sylvester’s White Truffle Serum has moisturising and repairing properties with vitamin B3 and vitamin B5 to stimulate cell renewal, soothe skin inflammation, and sensitivity problems while repairing the skin. 

Retinols: Anti-Aging Powerhouse

Retinol, a Vitamin A derivative, is widely regarded as a gold standard in anti-aging skincare. It promotes cell turnover, reduces fine lines, and improves skin texture. It helps to promote the skin’s natural exfoliation process—which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Beginners should start with lower concentrations (0.25% to 0.5%) to build tolerance, while more experienced users might opt for 1% retinol for more dramatic effects. Always pair retinol with sunscreen during the day, as it can increase sun sensitivity.

What to look for: Skinceuticals, Sunday Riley, and CeraVe all have best-selling Vitamin A / retinol serums that perform well in global beauty polls. Retinol is especially sensitive to light (which is why it's kept in dark packaging or packaging that doesn't let any light through) and in order to avoid unnecessary sun damage, only ever apply retinol before you go to bed. Use retinol every other day rather than every day, wait 30 minutes after washing your face before applying your retinol product, and avoid retinol products if you have a sunburn, broken skin or other skin irritations. Look for formulations with a percentage between 0.3% and 1%, with retinol 1% being the strongest option. 

Vitamins C and E: Antioxidant Duo

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that brightens the skin and boosts collagen production. It works best at concentrations of 10-20%. Vitamin E complements Vitamin C by enhancing its stability and adding moisturising benefits. Products combining these vitamins offer a potent defense against environmental damage while promoting a radiant complexion.

What to look for: The sweet spot for the concentration level is between 10-20%. You definitely want a concentration that's higher than 8 percent for maximum effectiveness. But going over 20 percent could lead to irritation and doesn't increase its benefit. You can take Vitamin C in your skincare supplements, in serums, and in masks and treatments. Glowagen’s Dynamic Peel + Vitamin C Serum features a formulation combining 10% Mandelic Acid in combination with a Multi-Fruit Acid Complex, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid and Canadian Willowherb – this promises to remove dead skin cells and reveal brighter, fresher skin.

How to Read Labels for Maximum Benefit

Deciphering ingredient labels can be challenging, but knowing what to look for helps ensure you’re getting effective products. Here are some tips:

1. Check the concentration: The higher an ingredient is on the list, the more concentrated it is. Active ingredients like retinol and niacinamide should appear near the top.

2. Product stability: Ingredients like Vitamin C are prone to oxidation, so look for products in air-tight, opaque packaging to maintain their efficacy.

3. Match ingredients to skin needs: Choose concentrations that suit your skin type and goals. For example, sensitive skin may benefit from lower percentages of potent “actives”.

Understanding these key ingredients allows you to make informed decisions, ensuring your skincare routine is both effective and tailored to your needs. Whether you’re seeking deep hydration, anti-aging benefits, or a radiant complexion, selecting products with the right concentrations of these viral ingredients is essential.